Project 1: French Hoods - Part 2

I thought the battle was complete once I wrestled the wire onto the base. I was dead wrong. In theory, this is the easiest part of the hood - just sewing the outer fabric together and putting it on. If I had decided to be period correct and used hand-sewing, it probably would have been. But no. I decided to be lazy and use the machine. Too bad my machine had other plans for the night that included fighting with me for several hours.

I'd like to take a second right here to interject that I blame my malfunctioning machine for my lack of enthusiasm to actually create anything. The truth is, the machine only fights with me because I do not know how to properly use it. Furthermore, when I actually do get it running, my stitches do not follow the edge of the fabric, and usually go in crazy places. So, to be fair to my lovely Singer, the fault is my own. That being said, I still believe my machine purposely sabotaged my efforts to complete this project.

I decided to pick a burgundy silk for the hood - it would have been lovely to match the same embroidered pattern as my gown, but I was able to find a raised diamond embroidery instead. The color match is perfect, and the additional design adds a little interest to the piece, I think. The back fabric was originally planned as a matte black satin or silk, but in my excitement at finding the burgundy silk, I forgot to purchase any. So instead, I used a black satin with an embroidered design that resembles my gown's design. I think it worked out pretty well in the end.

I apologize for the lack of photos. I was, actually, quite embarrassed at my work. The inside looks horrid - the stitches are not even or straight, and I still wrestled with the machine, producing lumps in some areas. However, once I turned the fabric right-side out and got the base in there, it looks pretty good! So alas, the pictures I have are of the (semi) finished product.

That horrible crease!! Now I know better than to cut in the middle - that or steam out any creases. Hopefully it's not too late! I think I did a pretty good job of getting the design straight. It's a little off to the left, but otherwise not too shabby!

Here's the back side - the design looks very similar to my gown, and I guess it worked out because it adds a little interest to the back, too!

I'm still playing around with ideas on how to attach the hood to my head  - comb? ribbon ties? hot glue? Only time will tell. But, at least I'm almost done with this project!!

Project 1: French Hoods

First of all, I apologize for starting this project without you. I technically started yesterday, and failed to capture any pictures of the first parts. Thankfully, I got maybe half an hour into the project when I was lured away by a hot breakfast cooked by Baron Babbles, aka, Hubby. As this post is still halfway under construction, I'll add the remaining steps and photos later this week.

Overview of the Project & Research:
The project is quite simple; I have a tudor-style gown that is in desperate need of matching headwear. While I have made due with a lovely piece purchased from the Anne Boleyn Files, I really do not feel complete until I have a perfect matching hood. Being this is my first serious foray into seamstress territory, I am very, very apprehensive. In fact, I expect this shall turn into a horrid mess that I will never wear. But! Sewing is not for the faint of heart!

The patterns I am using come from a mixture of places. I am not all that confident in my craftsmanship, so I am combining what seems to be the easiest of patterns. I started with a pattern from the Elizabethan Costume page (a FABULOUS resource page that I have often visited just to read). I also viewed as many other sources as possible, hoping to find golden nuggets of tips to help me. Here is a list of sites that I referenced heavily during the planning stages:

• For the underlying hairstyle and ideas for attaching the hood: Lynn McMaster's - An alternate construction for French Hoods
• For general construction step-by-step guide: Kate Dicey's Making a French Hood
• Pattern for the hood (1545 version): Elizabethan Costume Page

So here's the game plan: I will construct a french hood (using the 1545 pattern) with fabric to match my gown in burgundy red slub silk, trimmed with matching billiments (Project 2). I plan to use a combination of hair combs and braiding my hair to hold the hood on my head, and I am still undecided on the veil. The due date for this project shall be Friday, October 26th - what a short time away!

Step 1: Planning, Pattern, and Supplies:
Coming from my science-y background, I'm the kind of person to plan everything to a T. This project, however, has sort of just come together despite my knack for planning. To my credit, though, when I originally thought about doing this, I purchased a yard of the fabric of my dress from an online retailer. The fabric has since gone out of stock, so how lucky am I? Apparently... Not that lucky. After 2 moves, I have misplaced said fabric. Now I face the arduous task of finding a suitable fabric in a relatively short time period. Thankfully, I live right down the street from Jo-Ann's, and cleaned up shop yesterday thanks to a lovely sale. The fabric I purchased matches the coloring of my dress, but the embroidered pattern is a large diamond instead of something floral. I hope it's not too contrasting with my dress...

I also used a black embroidered satin for the back of the hood - purely by mistake as I forgot to buy a different fabric for the back, and had this lying around. I bought the last 1 3/4 yards, so I should still be safe if I need it for other projects. Lastly, I picked up a sheer satin to use for the veil, if I decide to do that.

Step 2: The Base:
For the base of the hood, I originally planned to follow in the steps of Kate Dicey, using Timtex instead of buckram. To be honest, I'm still not entirely sure what buckram looks like, and after many confused looks received from staff at local craft stores, I almost gave up on the idea. I found some reasonably priced Timtex online through Amazon, but luck evaded me once again, and the shipment was lost at sea (or... rather, the sea of boxes at the UPS facility). I finally settled on a heavy interfacing. Because I'm planning to add plenty of heavy trim, I decided to double up on the interfacing, using a whip stitch to get them together. I used regular black thread, and must say I got quite annoyed at tangles. Next time, I plan on using silk thread or some beeswax to help keep the thread in line (pardon the pun).

The 2 layers of interfacing whip-stitched together

Stitching is not my forte. It's something I really need more patience to do, especially since I have this idea that someday I'll make wonderful costumes. Then you add trying to blanket stitch wire onto a curved frame, and I go a little nuts.To the right are examples of what NOT to do in terms of stitching. Marvel at the horribly uneven spacing! Cringe at the puckering and tangled thread! Although, to my credit, they did get more even as I got the hang of the wire. Note that the corners are a little crazy - I went mad making sure the wire stayed in place. I also opted for an extra strength thread designed for outdoor upholstery. It was quite fabulous, actually. It didn't tangle and seemed very sturdy. I am quite enamored with this thread at the moment, and will probably use it forever.

Note the horrible stitching.

Crazy Corners

The finished base with wire - curved to show the shape. Ignore the mess that is my dining room table.

 The rest of this project will be completed in a later post~ Stay tuned!!

And So It Begins

After many years of admiring costumers online, I have decided to join their ranks. This is the first post of many as I journey through Tudor and Elizabethan costuming, dotted with random articles about life as a college student in general. I cannot guarantee that I will write often, but having a spot to place my babbles will encourage me to grow.

My skill level is somewhere between extremely poor and dear lord why is she even trying. I have the most grandiose plans in my head of dresses and trims and hats, but mostly they just fail to come to fruition. The most success I have had so far is in jewelry making for my costume, and will gladly offer my services to anyone through my Etsy store or by email. That being said, I find it extremely frustrating that nothing I dream of works, and make it my mission to learn the tricks of the trade in both jewelry making and costuming.

Previous attempts at costuming include trying to make my own 12th century surcoat. The result was too think in some sections and way too long. The slits on the side were not as long as pictured, and I gave up halfway through trying to make the trim. I lament this experiment because I thoroughly failed - it does not matter that it wasn't perfect, but I didn't even complete it. And of course, now my preferred style is much more complicated than that. Thankfully, however, I already have a headstart.

Thanks to the wonderful hands at Very Merry Seamstress, I have a gorgeous gown inspired by the famous portrait of Elizabeth I. The gown itself is deep red silk embroidered with a leave/scroll motif. The underskirt and sleeves are gold brocade. I have also purchased a French Hood separately that doesn't quite match (this is my next project!) and have slowly been adding to my costume year after year.

Most of my additions come around this time of year - October and November - due to the Texas Renaissance Festival. I have been too shy to join a local SCA group (more on this story later), so for now, this is my only occasion to wear my garb. I average 4 or 5 weekends (8 total), and enjoy simply walking around. I am still perfecting my expressions and speech, but I am very optimistic about this year. The festival has already begun, yet I have not been. My first weekend will more than likely be in 2 weeks, which is the pirate themed, so I will wear my pirate style garb. The following weekend will be my debut of my additions to my dress, so I have a firm timeline to complete my projects!

This year I am working on the following additions before October 27th - beaded trim for my dress to match a previously purchased girdle belt, a matching french hood, and finally perfecting my speech! I shall post updates of each project as I complete them, but for now, welcome to my journey!